If you have a problem, fix it. But train yourself not to worry, worry fixes nothing. - Ernest Hemingway

Tuesday 14 December 2021

The Naked Emperor

Nirendranath Chakraborti’s Naked Emperor is a significant Bangla poem of our time. It’s also the name of a collection of poems by Nirendranath. Here is my humble attempt to translate it.


The Naked Emperor 


Everyone sees that the emperor is naked, 

But they’re all clapping

And shouting, ‘Super! Super!’


Some of them are scared;

For some, it’s a force of habit;

Some have given their brain away as security;

Some perhaps live on charity, 

Some are beggars for benefits, 

Applicants for favours, or charlatans.

Some have been reasoning, the cloth a monarch wears

Has to be exceedingly fine.

Although it can’t be seen, it must be there, 

At least, it can be.


Everyone knows the story.

But the story doesn’t talk about

Just a bunch of people who are stupid, 

Or are cowards from head to toe, 

Or are scheming glad-handers. 

There was also a child in the story.

A truthful, brave, ordinary child.


The emperor has come off the page of a fairy tale

On to the open street of reality

Once again, people are clapping nonstop

The crowd of panegyrists grows.

But I don’t see the child 

Anywhere among them.


Where is she? Has anyone spirited her away

To a far-off mountain cavern?

Or has she drifted into sleep 

While playing with pebbles-soil-grass

Beside a stream or in the 

Shade of a lonely tree on a grassland?


Go! Fetch her, however difficult it might be.

Let her come here and stand without fear

In front of this naked emperor once. 

Let her raise her voice above the din, 

And ask, ‘Emperor! Where are your clothes?’


Translated on 12 December, 2021


*


উলঙ্গ রাজা


নীরেন্দ্রনাথ চক্রবর্তী


সবাই দেখছে যে, রাজা উলঙ্গ, তবুও

সবাই হাততালি দিচ্ছে।

সবাই চেঁচিয়ে বলছে; শাবাশ, শাবাশ!

কারও মনে সংস্কার, কারও ভয়;

কেউ-বা নিজের বুদ্ধি অন্য মানুষের কাছে বন্ধক দিয়েছে;

কেউ-বা পরান্নভোজী, কেউ

কৃপাপ্রার্থী, উমেদার, প্রবঞ্চক;

কেউ ভাবছে, রাজবস্ত্র সত্যিই অতীব সূক্ষ্ম , চোখে

পড়ছে না যদিও, তবু আছে,

অন্তত থাকাটা কিছু অসম্ভব নয়।


গল্পটা সবাই জানে।

কিন্তু সেই গল্পের ভিতরে

শুধুই প্রশস্তিবাক্য-উচ্চারক কিছু

আপাদমস্তক ভিতু, ফন্দিবাজ অথবা নির্বোধ

স্তাবক ছিল না।

একটি শিশুও ছিল।

সত্যবাদী, সরল, সাহসী একটি শিশু।


নেমেছে গল্পের রাজা বাস্তবের প্রকাশ্য রাস্তায়।

আবার হাততালি উঠছে মুহুর্মুহু;

জমে উঠছে

স্তাবকবৃন্দের ভিড়।

কিন্তু সেই শিশুটিকে আমি

ভিড়ের ভিতরে আজ কোথাও দেখছি না।

শিশুটি কোথায় গেল? কেউ কি কোথাও তাকে কোনো

পাহাড়ের গোপন গুহায়

লুকিয়ে রেখেছে?

নাকি সে পাথর-ঘাস-মাটি নিয়ে খেলতে খেলতে

ঘুমিয়ে পড়েছে

কোনো দূর

নির্জন নদীর ধারে, কিংবা কোনো প্রান্তরের গাছের ছায়ায়?

যাও, তাকে যেমন করেই হোক

খুঁজে আনো।

সে এসে একবার এই উলঙ্গ রাজার সামনে

নির্ভয়ে দাঁড়াক।

সে এসে একবার এই হাততালির ঊর্ধ্বে গলা তুলে

জিজ্ঞাসা করুক:

রাজা, তোর কাপড় কোথায়?

 

Sunday 29 August 2021

An evening in Amsterdam

 

As our flight from Dublin approached Amsterdam, the sun was setting. In the diffused twilight under a cloudy sky, we saw the Dutch coastline dotted with windmills. There is poetry in the architecture of the traditional windmills, their enormous light blades fixed on robust structures. Shortly, as the aircraft descended further, the intricate network of semi-circular canals which makes Amsterdam such a unique city rose before our rivetted eyes.

When we had been booking a room for our stay in Amsterdam, I’d found a conveniently priced hotel with decent rooms. Most alluringly, it was located at the border of the red-light district in Amsterdam. But my wife had rejected it out of hand. I wish she hadn’t. In that case, we wouldn’t have been nearly lost in a new city. (It can be safely argued it couldn't have been difficult to find the biggest brothel in Europe.) In a moment, I am going to narrate our adventures that evening. But before that, we had to overcome a lesser problem. 

As our departure from Bengaluru had been delayed, we’d missed our connecting flight at Abu Dhabi. When Etihad Airlines rerouted us through Dublin, we were happy at the prospect of getting a glimpse of the beautiful country of Ireland. However, sitting in the airport transit lounge in Dublin, we were able to see just a flat barren patch of land and a highway in the distance. It could have been anywhere. 

At Schiphol airport in Amsterdam, we waited as passengers collected their luggage and left one after the other, until the last bag came out on the baggage carousel. But unfortunately, it wasn’t ours. When we informed the KLM helpdesk, they were able to locate our missing suitcases within minutes, but to our dismay, the luggage was still in Abu Dhabi. The matronly KLM personnel who were womanning the helpdesk quickly brought out two faux leather pouches with combs, toothbrushes etc., and promised to send the suitcases to our hotel within 48 hours. They also said we could buy a change of clothes, which the airlines would reimburse within a limit. 

As we got through immigration, I fixed the international SIM we had been carrying in my phone. It worked perfectly: we called our son and daughter, and checked the direction to the hotel we had been booked in. A metro rail station is located within Schiphol airport. We utilised the freedom offered by the absence of baggage by boarding a train to Amsterdam Central. Our hotel was just four kilometres away from the Central station, which the Dutch spell as Centraal. 

We had hoped to buy some clothes near the railway station, but the airline was destined to save a few euros. It was the Easter Thursday, the long weekend had begun, and all the stores had been shut. To complicate matters, my new SIM card went to sleep when we needed it most. So, we knew the address of our hotel (117 Saarphatistraat), but had no idea how to get there. We were in an unfamiliar city in an evening of overcast sky. 

In front of the railway station, there were five or six tramlines, where empty, almost surrealistic trams were coming in and going away every minute, seemingly without a purpose. Two Indian students we met on the street checked Google Map on their phone and said we could take the metro to Weesperplein (Whisper plains?), which was just three stations away. The station was at the crossing of the streets Weesperplein and Saarphatistraat, in which was our hotel located, you might recall. (The Dutch, it seemed, are fond of double vowels and unfond of short names.) Our hotel would be a short walk from the metro station. 

At Weesperplein, we were the only people to get off the train. As we climbed up the stairs, we were greeted by two absolutely empty wide streets and howling winds. Some cars went past, but there was no one on the streets, not a soul. Every shutter was down and every door, closed. Europe is far away from summer in mid April. Gusts of cold wind pierced the light jacket I was wearing. My wife didn’t have even that little protection.

We were at the crossing of two major roads, but there were no road signs; we couldn’t figure out which of the two streets was Saarphatistraat. After spending 24 sleepless hours on three aircraft and at three airports, we were not too keen to walk more than what was necessary. Which road should we take? As we were thinking of tossing a coin, a tall well-built elderly gentleman emerged from the metro station swinging a large cloth bag which looked like what we use in Indian bazaars. He was exceedingly helpful. Although he didn’t know which of the streets we should take, he volunteered to telephone our hotel and find out where exactly it was. He called up the hotel and had a long conversation in Dutch. 

After disconnecting, he said, ‘Sorry, I don’t understand a word of what she says!’ 

Our jaws fell. He was speaking Dutch in the capital of the Netherlands! Was there actually a hotel or had we been conned? (A friend of mine had once found a warehouse at the address of a hotel he had booked in Beijing.) Either way, there was no question of detaining the good Samaritan any longer. He left. 

After walking about 100 metres, he shouted something to us excitedly in Dutch. In a few moments, we understood why he was excited. He was calling out, ‘Saarphatistraat, Saarphatistraat!,’ pointing his index finger at a road sign hidden behind a tree. 

Therefore, one problem was solved. We knew which street we had to take, but we still didn’t know which way to go: up or down. Somewhat strangely, there were no door numbers. We started walking in a direction and came across a few passersby. They spoke English, but every one of them was a tourist who had come to the city to spend their Easter weekend. We kept walking and asking the same question: 'Sir/Madam, could you tell us which way 117 Saarphatistraat is?' 

It started raining, first drizzles, and then a proper light shower, with a concomitant steep fall in temperature. We were looking at an uncertain night in freezing cold. Finally, I buttonholed a man who was carrying a large phone and requested him to check the address of our hotel. Google showed the path in dots; we had been walking away from our destination.

It didn’t take much longer to find the building numbered 117, where there was indeed a small hotel with nobody except the receptionist in the lobby. When we—decently drenched—were checking in, the penny dropped. We understood why the Dutch gentleman couldn’t follow a word of what the receptionist had said. 

She was a young Chinese student working part time in a hotel owned by a Chinese family. She spoke decent English with some effort, but she had just arrived in the Netherlands. Was she a precursor to a future Chinese Empire will stretch across the globe?

From the bowl of welcome candies kept on the reception desk, I grabbed a handful and said, ‘Please forgive me for taking so many. This is going to be our dinner.’

Krishnagiri / 28 August 2021




Tuesday 24 August 2021

সরোজ দত্তর দুটি কবিতা / Two Poems by Saroj Datta


চাপায়ে চায়ের জল নিভে আসা চিতার আগুনে

ডোমেরা বসিয়া আছে,

বারাংগনা করে গঙ্গা স্নান।

ভারাটে ব্রাহ্মণ ফেরে রোঁয়া ওঠা কুকুরের সাথে;

তোমায় এনেছি হেথা, বলিহারি মৃতের সম্মান।


After putting a teakettle on a dying pyre,

The men who cremate corpses sit beside.

A prostitute takes a dip in the Holy Ganga;

A mercenary priest returns with a mangy dog.

Where have I brought you?

Heck with respect to the dead!


[তাঁর পিতার মৃতদেহ সৎকার করার সময় শ্মশানের দেওয়ালে পোড়া কাঠের টুকরো দিয়ে সরোজ দত্ত এই লাইন গুলি লেখেন। চিন্মোহন স্নেহনবীশের সৌজন্যে এই কবিতাটি আমরা পেয়েছি।

Saroj Datta wrote these lines on a crematorium wall with a piece of burnt wood during his father's cremation. One of his friends, Chinmohan Snehanabish, saved the poem for posterity]


হা করে ঘুমুচ্ছেন বাবু,

চাকরে টিপছে পা,

যা করে চলছে সংসার,

সে কথা আর বলার না।


The plump babu is fast asleep

with his mouth amply open, 

A servant is messaging his feet.

How the world runs, is best forgotten.


Translated on 24 August 2021

Tuesday 3 August 2021

Night Out >>>

Whoever believes Hindi is the Indian language that has the most colourful profanities hasn’t met my friend Subroto Hajra. Subroto—friends called him Bonu—could reel out an astonishing array of Bangla swearwords at breakneck speed. But only if someone rubbed him on the wrong side; otherwise, he was a genial soul.

This innocent practitioner of graphic language had acquired the nickname I have just revealed in a rather strange manner. A beautiful and quiet girl in our class was Anusri, who generally kept to herself. A year after sharing classrooms with her, one day in some context, Subroto referred to her as Bonosree. It was outrageous that one of us would be unaware of the name of one of the most beautiful girls around. That day onward, everyone began calling Subroto Bonosree; in course of time, the moniker mutated into Bonu.

Behind his apparently abrasive exterior, a poet lived in Bonu. He didn’t usually smoke, but sometime during his stay in Dashachakra Hostel, he acquired a few packets of long Kent cigarettes that had white filter tips. He hid this treasure securely from predators, but at times, when the night was particularly beautiful, he would ask me to accompany him on a walk. But the pretext would be different; he would always say, borrowing the manufacturer’s slogan: ‘Let’s have a Kent!’

Once, in a cloudless full moon night, Bonu proposed that we go out for a long walk after supper. The two of us armed ourselves with a flask of black Nescafé and set out. It was a foolish thing to do because the time was early 1970s when—as I’ve written—the Naxalite movement had spread in our district, people were being killed randomly. Armed policemen patrolled roads at night. Among them were specimens who would shoot a suspect before talking.

We walked across the old fairground and then towards north as the world slept on either side of the empty road. After crossing the irrigation canal near Shyambati, we turned right. The vast empty tract of undulating land in front of us was washed by a gossamer silvery light as water gurgled in the canal flowing alongside. We crossed the empty patch of barren land that served as an open-air crematorium for the villages around. Scattered remains of burnt wood and memories of the few men and women who we had accompanied in their last journey during our brief adult life made our feet heavier.

A few dim electric lights were seen in the desolate Prantik rail station far away on the other side of the river Kopai. The station had hardly anyone even in daytime. We walked along the pathway beside the rail track until we reached the river. Kopai lay much below with a stream or two of gleaming molten silver shining in the moonlight. The absolute silence wasn’t broken by even a bird’s warble. It was pure bliss; we were not going anywhere; our only aim was to cross the bridge and go as far as our legs would take us.

The narrow bridge across Kopai was just a single rail track on girders supported by piers. There was no superstructure, no truss, not even railings. There was no pathway alongside. To cross the bridge, one had to walk on wooden railway sleepers. As we were crossing the distance of about a hundred metres, gusts of wind swept our faces. 

And when we were half-way down, we saw a train hurtling towards us from the opposite side at a tremendous speed. The circular headlight of the engine almost blinded us. The riverbed lay 30 to 40 feet below. There was no way we could turn back and outrun the train. Should we jump off?

On bridges like these, the railway constructs small square platforms by the side of the line at fixed intervals. A friend who is a railway engineer told me later it is called a trolley refuge; it is used to keep push-trolleys when required. A little ahead of us on the left there was such a platform, which was the only possible refuge for us, that is, if we were destined to see another sunrise. We ran towards the oncoming train as fast as we could, looking directly at its blazing cyclops eye. We had to reach the platform before the train did, all the while hoping there would be no missteps. It was perhaps the longest 10 seconds in my life, but we managed to reach, as you would have guessed.

But reaching the trolley refuge was not the end of our trouble. The platform was shaking violently, with an amplitude of maybe, a foot. We would have been thrown off if there hadn’t been a steel parapet on three sides of the platform. We grabbed the railings and hung on for our life.

It was a goods train, which means it had at least 40 wagons. It took an eternity to cross the bridge as we danced hip-hop on the platform. However, before we could breathe out a sigh of relief, a new problem arose. A strong beam of torchlight fell on us and we saw—to our horror—two armed policemen standing on the ledge behind the guard’s coach, one holding the torch, and the other taking aim at us with a rifle. We jumped and lay down as fast as we could. Bonu, an avid NCC cadet, said under his breath, ‘Three-naught-three.”

Whether he was correct or not in identifying the calibre of the gun, as we ducked, we would have been hidden from the policemen’s view. 

Before returning to our hostel, we did see the sun rise! h

 

01 August 2021

 

Thursday 29 July 2021

Goodbye, Apu Mama

 

Apu Mama, my mom’s younger brother, left us on 11 July. He was as fortunate in his death as he was in life (ultimately, after long struggles). He died at home, peacefully, with his wife Jana and daughter Monica by his side. His long guerrilla war against dementia ended when he was 88.

It’s difficult to write about people who are close to you because it is a bit like writing about yourself. I wish instead of writing this I was with Jana and Monica today.

I have been thinking of you, Apu Mama, over the last five days. We miss you. We will miss you. Pranam.

*

I shall try to use as few adjectives as I can because of what I have just said, but I can say this without hesitation: if one word could describe Apurba Ranjan Pal, Apu to his family and Ron to his friends, it would be “affectionate”. He was genuinely affectionate, despite being an angry young man all his life.

As he left India for Denmark when I was little, I have almost no childhood memories of him except that mother used to be deeply saddened by the absence of a darling younger brother who was struggling to make a living in a faraway land. (Their mother had died when they were kids; so my mother was a bit like a mom to Apu.) A few years later, Apu Mama crossed the North Sea to move to England, where over time, he would settle down in a quiet neighbourhood not far from the airport at Heathrow.

Moving back in time and towards East Europe, in the aftermath of the Prague Spring in 1968, Czechoslovakia was invaded by the Russian army, as many as 650,000 of them. The people of Czechoslovakia put up an unarmed resistance for eight months, says Wikipedia. The forces on either side would have been as asymmetric as in Vietnam, but for some reason, we didn’t get to hear much about this struggle. Wikipedia also says, a “massive wave of emigration swept the nation.”

Among the émigrés was Jana, a maths teacher and a stunningly beautiful Czech woman, who came to London. Apurba Ranjan met her and after some struggle with the Communist bureaucracy, they managed to get married in Prague. I have always thought my uncle (and our family) was among the biggest beneficiaries of the failed rebellion against Russian Communism. Czechoslovakia would become free much later, in 1989.

Sometime in the late 1960s, Apu Mama managed to visit home for the first time, maybe after a gap of 10 or 15 years. I was in college then. He travelled with me to my hostel, and together, we explored the campus and beyond. We went around in overcrowded public buses to the Masanjore Dam and maybe to a few other places too. In those few days, an unknown uncle became lifelong friend.

Thereafter, from time to time, I would receive a warm letter from Apu Mama with an international payment order for a few pounds. The amount, a minor treasure for me, was “biri khabar poisa,” that is, cigarette allowance.

Thereafter, he and Jana would visit us infrequently and we always looked forward to the visits. Meanwhile, I got married. My wife, Arundhati and Apu Mama had deep reciprocal admirations. Arundhati for the uncomplicated handsome man with salt-and-pepper hair who always spoke his mind, and he, for the shingaras and koi macher jhol that she would always prepare for him. Apu Mama obviously missed shingaras, which he called the national food of Bengal.

Much later, when my wife and I visited him in London a couple of times, Mamu was in the autumn of his life. He used to be quiet. I would still go out to a pub with him, but I missed the raucous arguments with him over many topics ranging from Satyajit Ray to the state of the nation, which had been the usual interaction pattern between uncle and nephew. (He was a rare Bong who was not a Satyajit Ray fan.) When we visited him, he would insist on his copy of the Guardian every morning, but wouldn’t be able to read much. He would sit quietly or sleep.

My wife and I stayed at their home. We would usually go out in the morning and go around. Jana would pack our lunch, complete with two soft-drink cans. What she gave would be more than what we could eat. But when we took leave, Apu Mama would invariably pick up two apples or oranges from the dining table and give us. I will remember my uncle by these small acts of kindness: IPOs for a few pounds and a few oranges or apples.

Over the last few years, uncle’s condition deteriorated. He might forget if he had had breakfast. More worryingly, when he went somewhere with family, he might suddenly start walking aimlessly, or try to get off the train at a wrong tube station. Jana and Monica took tremendous care of him. I haven’t seen anyone taking better care of their ailing husband / father.

16 July / 29 July 2021

Monday 12 July 2021

Just One Circle >>>


In Bangla, dash (it rhymes with bosh) stands for ten and chakra, for wheel or circle. (Remember the Sudarshan Chakra, the spinning-disc missile in the hand of the Hindu god Vishnu aka Krishna? Or its modern version in the hand of Vijay Amritraj in the James Bond film Octopussy?) Chakra also means conspiracy. Together, dashachakra means a conspiracy hatched by a number of people, that is, an intrigue, machination. However, the Dashachakra Hostel, where I moved in in my second year of stay in Santiniketan had nothing to do with intrigues, neither did it have 10 circles. 

It had just one circular courtyard at the centre shaded by two old mango trees, around which were 10 double rooms and a bathroom block. The rooms opened into the central courtyard. Between the door and the courtyard, each room had a tiny attached veranda too. The oblong rooms had two beds and three windows each. One of the windows was in the far wall, directly opposite the door; the other two were on either side. 

The wheel-shaped building stood as a beautiful work of architecture about 50 feet off a straight road on which only cycles and cycle-rickshaws plied. The foreground was barren. A slightly raised path of red gravel connected the hostel to the road.

On the other side of the road was the main playground of the campus. So, from the entrance of the hostel, we would see an enormous open space which merged into the greenery on the far side. 

Behind Dashachakra, there was another small boys’ hostel called the Punjabi House – a reminder of a time when Santiniketan was a cosmopolitan place – and a few staff quarters, where university teachers lived with families. Behind them were paddy fields. The proximate presence of profs was a nuisance; we, the inmates of the hostel, couldn’t make as much noise as we would have liked to. 

As the three windows in each room opened outside, our hostel was airy and light. In fact, wind swept through it all the time. Thanks to the mango trees in the courtyard and super air circulation, the summer afternoons were quite bearable there, but the winter nights were c-o-l-d, when the temperature often dipped below 10° Centigrade (plus the windchill factor!).

I was in a different hostel when I first went to Dashachakra in a frigid night to meet someone. Shivering in the cold draught despite two layers of woollens, as I walked towards the hostel, I saw a hairy man standing outside, looking into the distance, with nothing on his upper torso, and a printed red lungi below. I thought he was a madman. But he was not. He was Dilip Paul from East Pakistan, a few years my senior. 

Dilip’s roommate was Anuttam, who was a normal person, meaning he could feel hot and cold. But to share a room with Dilip, he could close only one and a half windows on his side of the room whatever might the temperature be and however piercing be the wind outside. I do not know why Anuttam accepted the deal. Maybe, it was his Buddha-like tolerance or maybe, Dilip Paul had some special charm? The answer would be bits of both, I guess.

In the two years I lived there, I would have shared the hostel with about 25 boys. I can recall most of their names and faces. The circular architecture of the building meant there was certain openness amongst its inmates; we would interact with each other closely. Did it contribute to making the place a more friendly one? I think yes. I do not recall an instance of discord in the two years I was there. 

As I look back, I find it surprising that the hostel had such a motley crowd. Let me begin with my roommate, Gautam. He was the badminton champion of the university and played football brilliantly despite smoking like a chimney and doing no physical training. Generous to a fault, Gautam would shower gifts on people whenever he could. If he was sharing food with a friend, say a cup of tea or a cutlet, he would surely part with the bigger “half”. On the other hand, if a girl was hosting us for tea and snacks at our self-service canteen – which wasn’t rare – Gautam would volunteer to get the food and afterwards, he would tell the host in a serious voice, ‘I’m keeping the change.’\

Gautam also had a fine sense of humour, to which I will come back in a moment. Turning back to the hostel with 20 boys, two most disciplined and likable guys were Shil Chand and Nikhil, who were roommates. Besides participating in the National Cadet Corps drills diligently, they studied. They would study till late into the nights, they would be the last to go to bed; next morning, they would be at their desks before anybody else got up. Maybe, Shil and Nikhil considered it a moral obligation to make up for the lack of efforts by some of their friends. Soumitra and Tapan were two of the gentlest souls I have come across. Soumitra’s handwriting was printed cursive writing and Tapan was the default tabla player at musical functions at our department. Dilip Paul, who studied chemistry, used to read widely, including impenetrable essays on philosophy and religion. He was much older than his age and we would refer to him as Sri Paul, which would have been quite a weighty name for a twenty-something. Kaushik and Siddharta were two adorable younger students. Kaushik had a whacky sense of humour and Siddhartha, who studied English, was an excellent a tenor. Both of them would migrate to the US.  From there, Siddhartha has gone to a place much farther-away. Bishu was a sad fellow, with a melancholy look pasted on him at all times. We used to say that whenever some sadness flew by, Bishu would shoot it down to have it with him. Badru didn’t have to live with the mystery that we all were condemned to suffer from. He had been married. 

Above all, there was Anuttam, an unusual person and a brilliant singer and poet, who I will come back to.

Gopalda, a very old man, was one of the 464 (?) casual labourers who had been given permanent job by the university. He looked very old and it seemed he was way beyond the age of superannuation. We often quizzed him about his age. And he would put on a serious face, ‘My dad had written down my date of birth on a chit of paper, but I’ve lost it.’

Anuttam’s younger bro, Gautam Biswas, who we called Bulti, moved into the hostel a year later. He initiated a process to beautify the barren patch in front of our hostel. He didn’t actually plant any trees. Instead, he wrote long letters to the university gardening department, containing detailed wish lists in convoluted officialese. He said there had to be at least one hereby or thereby, or preferably both in an official letter if it was to be taken seriously. And to add more weight, Bulti actually got a peon book, numbered the letters, and sent them across through Gopalda. And he insisted on a stamped acknowledgement for his missives.

The gardening department didn’t bother initially, but Bulti would send reminders regularly: “It has been noted with serious disfavour that your goodselves do not consider it necessary to look into the pressing aesthetic obligations to beautify the ugly barren patch in front of Dashachakra Hostel, and thereby betraying a lackadaisical attitude …” Etc. etc.

After some time, either because of Bulti’s nerve-racking letters or because of the peon book, the gardening department sent a cartload of manured soil and about 20 saplings and got them planted on either side of the path in front of our hostel.

Missioned accomplished, we soon forgot about them and one day I saw Biren holding an uprooted plant upside down and observing it closely. I asked him what he was doing and he answered, in all seriousness, ‘Checking how well the roots are growing.’

The playground in front of our hostel would have a lot of activities in the afternoon, but would fall asleep after dusk. On certain nights, it would become a sea of moonlight. In such nights, a girl sometimes pushed a wheel chair with her boyfriend, a paraplegic singer and a senior student in Sangeet Bhavan, to the edge of the playground. M, who is a well-known singer now, would sing khayals or thumris that would submerge area of our hostel in soulful music. We would speak in whispers in those times. 

Postscript: When I visited Santiniketan recently, I didn’t find Dashachakra. It seems the building was first allowed to go to seeds. Banyan trees grew from its unattended crevices as plaster and cornices fell off. Then the university authorities decided to demolish the structure. Fortunately, no authorities can ever demolish memories. 

Bengaluru / 12 July 2021


Thursday 3 June 2021

A Reverse Roll Call

 


When we were promoted to Class VI, the half-sleeve white shirt remained the same, but the colour of our school shorts changed from white to khaki. We also moved to the secondary section of the school which began in the same premises at 11 in the morning. (The primary school got over at 10.30.) 

     I have just narrated the story of an extra-ordinary human being and teacher we met in the secondary school: Umapati Kumar. We had a number of other wonderful teachers. For example, Big Sunil Babu, who taught us English beautifully, together with dollops of affection. The qualifier Big was used as there was a Small Sunil Babu too, who was much shorter. Big Sunil Babu was always in Dhoti, Kurta, and covered shoes with socks, for which reason he was also referred to as Socks-wearing Sunil Babu.  

     However, as Horace said: nihil est ab omni parte beatum, there are no unmixed blessings. Unlike in the primary section, not all the teachers of our senior school commanded respect, naturally, or otherwise. I was in two minds whether to write about them because there is a saying in Bangla: Criticising a teacher is the worst possible sin. (গুরু নিন্দা মহা পাপ।) On the other hand, the brilliant Bengali writer, Syed Mujtaba Ali shared this doggerel:

যদ্যপি আমার গুরু শুঁড়ি বাড়ী যায়, / তদ্যপি আমার গুরু নিত্যানন্দ রায়।

My guru might drink bootlegged liquor / But Nityananda Ray is my teacher.

So, after some hesitation, I have decided to describe the darker side too. For example, our first history teacher in the secondary school was the opposite of Big Sunil Babu as far as energy was concerned. He would ask us to study a chapter at home and in the next class, we would have to reel out – one student after the other – whatever we had managed to memorise, beginning at one end of the first bench. By the time the first speaker finished, the teacher would be snoring peacefully; the second student would pick up the baton. Every one of us would eagerly wait for Sudipto’s turn to come, because he would speak from memory – on whatever the topic was, and sometimes beyond it – the chapter(s) from Kiran Chowdhury’s undergraduate history textbook, every word of it. Sudipto would continue until the bell rang and so, we could indulge in whatever pastime we enjoyed, reading storybooks being a primary one. (We would graduate to pornography in due course, but that would be much later.)

Sudipto had a memory that could be compared to the magnetic tape of the Grundig tape-recorder that I was fortunate to see in action. His other intellectual faculties too matched his memory. He left the school two years later, when his father, a renowned economist, took up a teaching job at a New Zealand university. Much later, thanks to another classmate Tushar, I spoke to Sudipto for a few minutes and then exchanged a couple of emails until he died in his early fifties. He had been a professor at London School of Economics then. After his passing, I read Sudipto’s CV on the LSE website. It was breathtaking.

Academics was not my forte, to put it mildly. Neither was I good at sports or music. I think the only area I was reasonably good at in school was painting. It is therefore natural that our fine arts teacher would leave a deep impression on me. He had been a topper of his class at Calcutta Government Art College. Much later, after a painting exhibition organised by him, a critic lamented (in the Bangla magazine Desh) that school teaching had destroyed the artist in him; he could have become a top-notch painter.

We couldn’t have known his level as an artist, but he thrilled us by quickly drawing brilliant landscapes in our drawing notebooks. He taught me how to use the oil pastel. I copied his style with the reverence that a pre-teen can have for a guru. When my work at a sit-and-draw competition was judged the best in school, someone complained I had smuggled in one of his landscapes torn off my notebook and submitted it as my own work. Sadly, my idol too believed it was actually his work!

So, a good effort by me led to the ignominy of being labelled as a suspected cheat. After repeating the pastel drawing while the teacher sat in front, I told him, ‘Sir, I won’t accept the prize.’

The prize – which incidentally was sponsored by him every year – was a silver medal with his mother’s name inscribed on it. He was taken aback by the cheeky protest and quite possibly, felt bad about his error of judgement. He also knew that in the land of Gandhi, I couldn’t be punished for taking a moral high ground. After much melodrama over the next week or so, I was cajoled into accepting the medal in the prize distribution ceremony that followed.

I am not sure if I still have the medal, but its memory stands for a lesson I’ve tried not to forget: to be fair when I had the power over other human beings, however small it might be. It also feels great that I have been a pioneer in the field of “award-wapsi” long before it became a fashionable form of protest in India.


Patro Babu’s speciality was a subject that was finer than fine arts: physics. He was easily the most exciting teacher we had in school. One had to be really dumb not to get a concept that he explained. Besides teaching brilliantly, his other speciality was that he had worked out the physics of hitting errant boys in a way that maximum impact would be made with the least effort.

The redoubtable teacher had an unfortunate clash with Shakuntala Devi, who mesmerised the world by doing long arithmetical calculations (like multiplying two thirteen-digit numbers) in her head. At the University of California, Berkeley, she worked out the cube root of 61,629,875 and the seventh root of 170,859,375 under controlled conditions even before the psychologist who was testing her could jot down the numbers. (She could do it possibly because she had no formal education in her childhood; she was the daughter of a trapeze artist and lion-tamer in a circus.)

When Shakuntala Devi visited our school, she was at the peak of her fame. We, all the students, sat down on the floor of our auditorium, armed with results of long calculations in our notebooks which had been checked multiple times by multiple people. (Electronic calculators were in the womb of a distant future then.) On the stage, where Shakuntala Devi sat, there was a black-board. A senior student would write down the task on the board and Shakuntala would give the answer almost before he could finish writing. The student who had prepared the task would confirm the result.

We were awe-struck, but not Patro Babu. He wrote a complex sum on the board, not a long arithmetical function. Shakuntala Devi hadn’t claimed she could solve every mathematical problem under the sun. She looked at the black-board and asked for the next task. To this, Patro Babu wrote on the board – “Could not be solved”. We were not impressed by this crude exhibition of vanity. 

Vanity would be an unthinkable character trait for Subhankar Babu, who taught us chemistry. Anther brilliant teacher, Sir wouldn’t raise his voice ever. That doesn’t mean our stupidity and lack of application didn’t hurt him. But for him, the most violent form of admonition was a wry smile.  


Although I opted to study science in high school, I was most impressed by three high-school English teachers: Suprabhat Chakraborty, Ajit Babu, and Sailesh Babu. Besides being exceedingly well-read, each one of them was a minor rock star; there was never a dull moment when they were in class. Ajit Babu directed three of us in a play based on the Irish Independence struggle: Lady Augusta Gregory's Rising of the Moon. It was an unforgettable experience.

Suprabhat Babu, who genuinely loved us, could get violently angry. Every time he hit the ceiling, we felt he would suffer brain hemorrhage. One day, when someone did something reprehensible, Sir started from a corner. Standing menacingly in front of the boy he asks, ‘Did you do it?’

Student 1 stands up: ‘No, Sir.’

Sir (at the top of his voice): ‘Are you sure?’

Without waiting for an answer, Suprabhat Babu lands three hefty blows on the fellow and moves on to next in line, ‘Did you do it?’

Boy 2: ‘No Sir.’

Three smacks and then to the next row.

The same words and action were repeated until the teacher was completely exhausted. I haven’t seen a more even-handed, socialistic in distribution of punishment ever. The people who abolished corporal punishment in schools had no idea how entertaining it could be with teachers like Suprabhat Babu around. During the rest of our school days, if we wished to hit a classmate, we wouldn’t forget to ask ‘Are you sure?’ before action.

Ramaranjan Adhikary, who taught us Bangla, had a whacky sense of humour. He regaled us with stories and anecdotes even when he taught grammar. Thanks to him, we learned grammar could be genuinely entertaining. 

Ramaranjan Babu passed away in May 2019. Umapati Babu and Suprabhat Babu had left us earlier. And surely, some others too would have gone. But they continue to live in our collective memory. Teachers, like parents, continue to live even after their death.   

 

Tuesday, 08 September 2020

Friday 21 May 2021

Kolkata – a natural bulwark against divisive politics?

I was fortunate to meet James Bradbury, a PhD student from Manchester University, when he was doing field studies in and around Kolkata a few years ago. Within a few months, James became reasonably proficient in Bangla and made lots of friends here. Clearly, he was learning not just from printed letters; he was trying to understand the city through experiential learning.

Today, I happened to re-read one of his essays. On 14 September 2020, James wrote this about Kolkata: 

“Once the seat of power in colonial India, Kolkata has once again moved to the center of the nation’s political life. Now, it is integral to a struggle to define the Indian nation. What engenders this struggle in the first place is arguably Kolkata’s living repository of experiences, memories, and ideas—everything that the city preserves and that contradicts the BJP’s political agenda. This political tradition is kept alive in the chatter of the city’s coffee houses, tea shops, and campuses, and lodged in the collective memories of independence, displacement, resettlement, and renewal.

“And it is indeed fragile. As the BJP’s electoral juggernaut rolls eastward, it will inevitably alter Kolkata’s political culture: Hindu nationalism will play a greater role in coming years, stirring up underlying religious tensions and politicizing questions of citizenship and belonging along the border. But this vision of India will also face a natural bulwark in the refugee megacity, where some voters and activists will stubbornly adhere to their time-honed ideas and reject attempts to rule them by sowing divisions. Kolkata may, in this process, rekindle some of the rebellious energy that has characterized its history. In its midst, it continues to shelter ideas that were important to India’s nation-making past, and which are likely to re-emerge in one form or another to shape its future.”

The result of the recent election in West Bengal has flummoxed pundits of all persuations. Except for Prashant Kishore and – I can say now – James Bradbury, NOBODY could foresee the future in such clear terms. Kolkata has indeed rekindled “some of the rebellious energy that has characterized its history.”

As a social scientist, James Bradbury shows tremendous prescience to predict what has been happening in Bengal today. Take a bow, James!

I would strongly recommend that you invest a little time to read it. If you do, you shall get some clarity about the history of West Bengal and also a partial answer to the question why a state with such a large population of Hindu refugees uprooted by Muslims have always kept communal political parties like the Hindu Mahasabha, Jan Sangh, and now BJP, at arm’s length. Happy reading!

Here’s the link to the essay. 

21 May 2021

Tuesday 18 May 2021

The Digital Divide


The graphic above is true and so sad! If anything shows our government’s complete indifference – if not disdain – for ordinary people, it is the COWIN app. Our rulers have made internet access almost a precondition for the life-saving vaccination against COVID-19. The poor in India don’t get anything easily, from ration card to medical aid. Now, a vast majority of them who don’t have internet access have an even bigger handicap vis-à-vis the vaccine.

However, India was not like this always. When I was a child, once a year, our whole family would visit a nearby corporation office for the small-pox vaccine to be administered with a bifurcated needle that would make two parallel punctures. It was open and free to all and the government advertised it widely to encourage people to get vaccinated. In fact, the efforts were much more than mere publicity. The University of Michigan Library website says:

“[In India in 1974] During a six-day period each month, health workers visited every one of the country’s 100 million households. Supervised by about fifty international advisors and an equal number of Indian officials, some thirty-three thousand district health personnel and more than 100,000 additional field workers conducted house-to-house searches in a total of 575,721 villages and 2,641 cities.”

Clearly, a much poorer India had wiser and better educated leadership that invested scarce resources into public health programmes thanks to which India has been able to kill to demons: small pox and polio. The second graphic has captured our past beautifully.

But today, we have a government run by idiots with phoney degrees and charlatans who promote unscientific, so-called ayurvedic cures so that fellow crooks can make a quick buck even in the middle of a devastating pandemic. More importantly, the government invested nothing except on the 3rd stage clinical trial of the vaccine developed by the Indian Council for Medical Research (ICMR) and Bharat Biotech. Even Covaxin, the vaccine jointly developed by ICMR, they didn’t license to other manufacturers. Contrarily, the Russian Sputnik-V vaccine is going to be manufactured by six companies in India. Why did the government restrict production of Covaxin to only a small Hyderabad-based private company? If you know the answer, please tell me. Questions galore. Why do the owners of the biggest vaccine manufacturer Serum Institute of India have to run away to England when they should try to augment their manufacturing capacity to help millions of Indians?

Since the middle of 2020 the USA (even under a madman president) and Europe have been investing heavily into private companies for researching vaccines; many governments bought millions of doses of vaccine much before they were tested or produced. But our government ignored warnings from the scientific community about an impending second wave and didn't pre-book a single dose of the vaccine. What were they doing with the thousands of crores reportedly received in the completely opaque PM Care Fund if they didn’t utilise it for vaccines?

Our government has messed up every aspect of the problem whether making digital access a priority or the pricing of the vaccine or the age-group to which it should be given first. It has come out with a series of seemingly random decisions which has helped none. But these acts of stupidity pale into insignificance when you consider that in the humongous machinery called government and its adjuncts like the Niti Ayog, there was nobody to compare the number of vaccines required and the available production capacity in the country. Did they actually forget to do this when they were gleefully celebrating their stupidity as late as in March 2021? Can anything be more bizarre?

*

I belong to the privileged minority that has much better access to scarce resources. I personally have access to most of the ladders shown in this graphic. Therefore, anything I write on ordinary people not getting the COVID-19 vaccination would amount to hypocrisy. I accept the charge, but that doesn’t alter facts. We have a bunch of moronic rulers who are destroying the country.

The PM must resign. If ever a national government was needed with the best talents available in the country, it is now.

 18 May 2021

 

Sunday 16 May 2021

The Ganga is a carrier of corpses

 In the Wire yesterday, Deepal Trivedi wrote: 

“A poet from Gujarat once hailed as “the next big icon of Gujarati poetry” by right-leaning litterateurs in the state, has become the latest target of the BJP IT cell’s troll army for a powerful poem she has written on the sufferings of Indians as the Union government grossly mismanages the second wave of the pandemic. …

 

“The 14-line poem was promptly translated into at least six languages, becoming the voice of all Indians who are saddened by the tragedies wrought by the pandemic and angered by the government’s aloofness and mismanagement of the situation.”

I am sharing with you my Bangla translation of the poem from English, followed by the English version by Salil Tripathi, Hindi by Ilyas Sheikh, and finally, the original in Gujarati.

Courtesy: The Wire, from where I have sourced the original and two translations, and also the picture of the poet.

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শববাহিনী গঙ্গা / পারুল খাক্কার  >>>


সারি সারি শবদেহ বলে, খুসী থাকো, কোন কিছু ভাববেনা কেউ।

রামরাজ্যে রাজা, মানুষের দেহ নিয়ে বয়ে যায় গঙ্গার ঢেউ।

হে রাজন, জঙ্গলের কাঠ সব ছাই, শ্মশানে তিলমাত্র স্থান নেই

আর্তকে সাহায্য করার লোক নেই, শববাহকের অভাবও একান্তই

শোক করার জন্যই বা আছে কে? আমরা তবুও বেঁচে থাকি

ভাষাহীন নিষ্প্রাণ অবসন্নতা একমাত্র রয়ে যায় বাকী।

 যমদূতেরা নগরীর ঘরে ঘরে, তারা নৃত্য করে মহা উল্লাসে

রামরাজ্যে রাজা, সারি সারি শবদেহ গঙ্গায় ভাসে।

হে রাজন, শ্মশানের চিমনিটাকে কাঁপিয়ে দিয়েছে জীবানুর ঝড়,

ভাঙ্গবে অনেক শাঁখা আরো, ভালোবাসা, উত্তোলিত বক্ষপিঞ্জর।

 ঘাতকের তরবারি; প্রজ্জ্বলিত জনপদে পরিশ্রমী নৃপতি বীনা বাজায়

তোমার রামরাজ্যে রাজা, গঙ্গায় সারি সারি শবদেহ ভেসে যায়

ঝকঝকে পোষাক তোমার, মৃদু হাস্যময় তোমার চিবুক

অবশেষে মানুষ দেখেছে তোমার নির্মম, ভয়াবহ মুখ।

 কোন কিন্তু নয় আর, বাইরে এসো, উচ্চকন্ঠে বল বারবার,

উলঙ্গ রাজা তুমি নির্বোধ! চুপ করে থাকবো না আর।

বিদ্ধস্ত জনপদ, চিতার আগুন মেঘবর্ত্ম ছুঁয়ে ফেলে প্রায়

 

তুমি কি দেখ না রাজা, গঙ্গায় সারি সারি লাশ বয়ে যায়?

 

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English Translation by Salil Tripathi >>>

 

Don’t worry, be happy, in one voice speak the corpses
O King, in your Ram-Rajya, we see bodies flow in the Ganges

O King, the woods are ashes,
No spots remain at crematoria,
O King, there are no carers,
Nor any pall-bearers,
No mourners left
And we are bereft
With our wordless dirges of dysphoria

Libitina enters every home where she dances and then prances,
O King, in your Ram-Rajya, our bodies flow in the Ganges

O King, the melting chimney quivers, the virus has us shaken
O King, our bangles shatter, our heaving chest lies broken

The city burns as he fiddles, Billa-Ranga thrust their lances,
O King, in your Ram-Rajya, I see bodies flow in the Ganges

O King, your attire sparkles as you shine and glow and blaze
O King, this entire city has at last seen your real face

Show your guts, no ifs and buts,
Come out and shout and say it loud,
“The naked King is lame and weak”
Show me you are no longer meek,
Flames rise high and reach the sky, the furious city rages;
O King, in your Ram-Rajya, do you see bodies flow in the Ganges?

 

*

 

Hindi translation by Ilyas Sheikh >>>

 

एक साथ सब मुर्दे बोले सब कुछ चंगा-चंगा
साहेब तुम्हारे रामराज में शव-वाहिनी गंगा

ख़त्म हुए शमशान तुम्हारे, ख़त्म काष्ठ की बोरी
थके हमारे कंधे सारे, आँखें रह गई कोरी
दर-दर जाकर यमदूत खेले
मौत का नाच बेढंगा
साहेब तुम्हारे रामराज में शव-वाहिनी गंगा

नित लगातार जलती चिताएँ
राहत माँगे पलभर
नित लगातार टूटे चूड़ियाँ
कुटती छाति घर घर
देख लपटों को फ़िडल बजाते वाह रे बिल्ला-रंगा
साहेब तुम्हारे रामराज में शव-वाहिनी गंगा

साहेब तुम्हारे दिव्य वस्त्र, दैदीप्य तुम्हारी ज्योति
काश असलियत लोग समझते, हो तुम पत्थर, ना मोती
हो हिम्मत तो आके बोलो
मेरा साहेब नंगा
साहेब तुम्हारे रामराज में शव-वाहिनी गंगा

 

The original in Gujarati >>>

 

એક અવાજે મડદાં બોલ્યાંસબ કુછ ચંગા-ચંગા
રાજ, તમારા રામરાજ્યમાં શબવાહિની ગંગા.
રાજ, તમારા મસાણ ખૂટયા, ખૂટયા લક્કડભારા,
રાજ, અમારા ડાઘૂ ખૂટયા, ખૂટયા રોવણહારા,
ઘરેઘરે જઈ જમડાંટોળી કરતી નાચ કઢંગા
રાજ, તમારા રામરાજ્યમાં શબવાહિની ગંગા.
રાજ, તમારી ધગધગ ધૂણતી ચીમની પોરો માંગે,
રાજ, અમારી ચૂડલી ફૂટે, ધડધડ છાતી ભાંગે
બળતું જોઈ ફીડલ વગાડે વાહ રે બિલ્લા-રંગા!
રાજ, તમારા રામરાજ્યમાં શબવાહિની ગંગા.
રાજ, તમારા દિવ્ય વસ્ત્ર ને દિવ્ય તમારી જ્યોતિ
રાજ, તમોને અસલી રૂપે આખી નગરી જોતી
હોય મરદ તે આવી બોલો  ‘રાજા મેરા નંગા
રાજ, તમારા રામરાજ્યમાં શબવાહિની ગંગા.