After an insanely sumptuous breakfast at our New Delhi hotel, my son
Ritwik and I went to see the samadhi of a frugal eater who would go on fast at
the drop of a hat. Rajghat was a few metro stations and a short autorickshaw
ride away from our hotel.
Ritwik, who belongs to the cash-rich-time-poor generation of modern
India, had come to Delhi for two days’ work, but didn’t have the time to visit
home. So we decided I would spend a Saturday with him. Here is a brief note on
the exhilarating day.
At the place where Mahatma Gandhi was cremated in Rajghat, a low
rectangular black marble monument has been built. It was designed to be
minimalist and simple to reflect the values of the great man. The not-so-great
men who killed Bapu are our rulers today. But they haven’t messed with his
samadhi, at least not yet, unlike the vandalism they have done in Jallianwala Bagh.
Lata Mangeshkar was singing Gandhi’s favourite Gujarati bhajan, "Vaishnava
Jana To” when a pleasant breeze blew over the green lawns shining bright under
a clear sky in the late-winter morning. Some visitors—Indians and foreigners
who incidentally hadn’t come on tourist buses—were sauntering past the memory
of the greatest son of modern India. Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi still draws
people. I am waiting for the day when he reclaims his place in the public life
of India.

From a sad landmark of modern India to the beginning of the Indian
civilisation. The section on the Harappan civilisation in the National Museum
was overwhelming. I had no idea that their pottery was so large, in such varied
shapes, and with such intricate designs. When their seals with right-to-left
writing come out of pages of books and present themselves in three dimensions,
it’s an indescribable feeling for the viewer. Unfortunately, the two most
relatable artefacts of the period, the dancing woman and the bust of a bearded
man, are in Pakistan. But what is in India is no less remarkable.
What bowled me over completely was a woman’s skeleton excavated in
Rakhigarhi in Haryana between 1997 and 2000, which is incredibly undamaged. In his
book EARLY INDIANS, Tony Joseph has written that only one of the fifty to sixty
Rakhigarhi skeletons (c. 2600–2200 BCE, the Mature Harappan phase) offered DNA
good enough for genetic analysis. And that skeleton (not the one in National
Museum) settled one question finally. The Harappan civilisation happened before
the steppe pastoralists migrated into India. the two groups had no shared
genes.
As I looked at the woman wearing shell bangles on her left wrist, she
opened a window to my distant past. She reminded me that we are descendants of
an incredibly brilliant, peace-loving, mathematically gifted people. If young
Indians are a force in the world of technology today, maybe, 5,000 years ago,
the woman lying before me had passed on some of the genes that made it
possible?
It was lunchtime and after walking many miles, the breakfast was almost
forgotten! We weren’t far from Khan Market, where we went up a narrow staircase
to reach Khan Chacha’s eatery. I am sure I had done a few good deeds in my
previous life which entitled me to savour such a delectable combination of
rumali roti and mutton at Khan Chacha’s. Must visit the place again because I
doubt if there is a comparable place in heaven, which anyway is an unlikely
destination for me.
Khan market, named after Gandhi’s friend Khan Abdul Ghaffar Khan, was
set up in 1951 to rehabilitate Punjabi refugees from West Pakistan. Over time,
thanks to their enterprise, it has evolved into a first-class commercial hub
frequented by politicians, journalists, diplomats, and other well-heeled
Delhiites. For this reason, the Sanghi types coined the derogatory term “Khan
Market Gang” to describe people who wear Western clothes but not a tilak, who
read books, speak English, and are generally unaware of the original phase of
the acche din two millennia ago. I noticed that the incorrigible Khan-Market
crowd is yet to soak in the “sanskari” vibes and many of them still enjoy meat
and reading. (Also, women’s clothes showed a distinct lack of disinclination towards
the decadent West.)
To cater to readers among them, there are wo terrific bookshops in Khan
Market: Bahrisons and Faqir Chand. We happened to walk into Bahrisons, which
had books stacked from floor to ceiling, where Ritwik and I got exactly the
books we were looking for. (Faqir Chand, a few blocks away, looked almost
identical.) On top of that, there were copies of Amitava Ghosh’s latest novel _Ghost
Eyes_ signed by the author. Ritwik grabbed two copies, one for a friend.
By then, I was quite tired and wanted to retire. But fortunately, I
remembered that the National Gallery of Modern Arts (NGMA in short) which we
had crossed in the morning wasn’t far away. For a long time, I had wanted to
see Tyeb Mehta’s Human Landscape once again. And a Hemen Majumdar painting of a
woman who was startled and embarrassed, presumably because someone had seen her
while she was undressing.
Ritwik hadn’t visited NGMA, which has the finest collection of modern
Indian art from Rabindranath Tagore to Bikash Bhattacharya. For the following
three hours, Tagore, Abanindranath, Nandalal Bose, Ramkinkar Baij, Binode
Behari Mukhopadhyay, Amrita Sherghil, Maqbul Fida Hussein et al took us to
another world. I saw Tyeb Mehta’s painting again and was as amazed as I was the
first time, but I couldn’t find Hemen Mazumdar or the large canvas of Jogen
Chowdhury. (Why?) I was transfixed as I stood before a simple FN Souza drawing
of a man in a few strokes. His haunting eyes gobbled me up for a while. It is a
shame that NGMA doesn’t allow photography and hence I cannot show you the
picture.
While our taxi went through a tree-lined avenue with embassies on either
side of the road, I thought the areas we covered yesterday, i.e., a triangle
with Aerocity, Rajghat, and Khan Market at its vertices, was possibly one of
the finest urban landscapes of our time.
To wrap up, let me not forget say that contrary to popular belief, the
Delhi people we met were almost epitomes of politeness. None of the three
autorickshaw drivers we met tried to fleece us. Rather, they asked for modest
amounts. Once, when we had to travel much longer than what the auto driver had
initially anticipated, he didn’t grumble. And he was visibly pleased when I
paid him for the extra distance without his asking for it. The oldest among the
three, sixty plus Suresh Pandit, a proud brahmin and a true vegetarian, drives
20+ kilo metres from his East Delhi home to the Khan Market auto stand. Pandit
said he was struggling to make ends meet because the app-based taxies were
driving auto rickshaws out of Delhi roads. I was tempted to ask him if he realised
that the political party he supports is doing exactly the opposite of what
Gandhi prescribed, they are making life more difficult for the people who are
already vulnerable.
I didn't ask him the question and he smiled warmly when we parted.
.
Bengaluru / 08 February 2026